Heading to Muang Ngoy?!
You’re in for a treat.
One of my favourite places in Laos where I couldn’t help but continually extend my stay. Let me introduce you to this charming place!
I’ll take you through where to stay, what to do, how to get to Muang Ngoi, all the best places to eat and to hike, and a few tips to help you along the way.
Nestled along the Nam Ou River in Northern Laos, and surrounded by towering limestone cliffs and lush greenery, Muang Ngoi offers a unique glimpse into traditional Laotian life and shouldn’t be missed when visiting Laos.
How to get to Muang Ngoi
Travelers typically begin their journey to reach Muang Ngoi by boat from Nong Khiaw.
The fastest and simplest option is to take the Public Boat from the pier. Two boats depart every day. One at 11:30, and another at 14:30.
A ticket will set you back 70,000 KIP (£2.5| $3.2). However, be aware that many people have reported the ticket office of occasionally scamming foreigners. Charging them between 150,000 to 200,000 KIP for the journey.
Once your boat departs, you will see beautiful views opening up around you, with mountains everywhere that you look at and interesting scenes of local village communities going about daily life; herding cattle, washing clothes or playing along the river.
Despite the journey being quick, it is by no means comfortable. You will not depart until they have fit as many people as possible in the boat, resulting in a cramped and sweaty trip. If you have a bony ass (like me), you should bring something soft to place on top of the wooden benches to sit upon.
Where to stay in Muang Ngoi
If you are looking to save money on accommodation when coming to Muang Ngoi, you shouldn’t book accommodation online, instead, if you don’t mind walking a little then you will find better value for money and a greater range of guesthouses to choose from!
People will also be waiting on the pier to offer you accommodation, typically for around 200,000 KIP per night. Cheaper than online but more expensive than if you seek a room yourself.
We stayed 5 nights at Nicksa’s Place which cost 150,000 KIP per day (February 2024). Our room was basic, however, it had a chill balcony with a hammock, and nice views of the Nam Ou River and the mountains, which was perfect to relax and watch the sunset.
However, if you wish to book online for peace of mind I’d recommend Ning Ning Guesthouse. We ate here a few times as they were one of the few places that accepted card payments in Muang Ngoi. The vibes are very relaxed, and there are lovely views of the mountains. You’ll find the best rates here!
What to do in Muang Ngoi?
Visit Tad Mook Waterfalls
From Muang Ngoi you can easily visit the Tad Mook waterfalls by taking a small boat along the Nam Ou River, taking around one hour. You will pass incredible views of the mountains and local villages, and a small section of choppy waters.
We organised a boat through the host at Nicksa’s Place, costing us 250,000 KIP for two people (125,000 per person).
Alternatively, you can complete a 10km hike from Muang Ngoi to Tad Mook, which you can read about here.
The boat will drop you off in the small village of Sop Keng where you will begin the 30-45 minute hike to reach the beautiful waterfalls. When you are met with two paths near the waterfalls, I recommend taking the path to the right as it passes a stream which leads to the lowest of the 3 levels of the waterfalls.
There are 3 separate levels, each with their own waterfall and bathing spot to cool yourself down after the hike.
On the way back you can take the the path to the left of the final level, which will look you back to the path at at the crossroads, and bring you back to Sop Keng. Make sure you tip your driver or buy them a beer, as they’ve had to waited this whole time for you!
Hiking is one of the best activities to do in Muang Ngoy! There are two main hikes to do here, the hike to Phanoi Viewpoint, as well as the Pha Boom hike. If you finish both of these, there are also hikes to visit the surrounding local villages through the road leading West out of the village.
Hiking in Muang Ngoi
Phanoi Viewpoint
The Phanoi Viewpoint is a 1.9km out and back hike. With 150 metres of elevation and a 30-45 minutes ascent to the viewpoint, it’s much easier than the popular hikes in Nong Khiaw, as well as the Pha Boom hike In Muang Ngoy.
There are many signs in the town directing to you to the trailhead, which is located on the right-hand side of the town when facing the river.
The trail begins at a small farm, where you will see many peacocks, ducks, goats and extremely friendly cats! Here you can buy a ticket from the friendly man at the counter for just 20,000 KIP per person.
Where the route splits in two at the beginning, I recommend taking the steep route to the left going up and taking the alternative route on the way down, for a varied route and not having to descend on a dangerously steep route.
At the top you can soak in the views of Muang Ngoy, the Nam Ou River and the moutains. There is ample shade here thanks to a constructed wooden platform. This is a great spot to watch the sunset with a few Beer Laos’, or to sunbathe during the day!
Pha Boom Hike
The Pha Boom Hike is a 1.4 km out and back hike, with 420 meters of elevation gain. This hike is considerably more challenging than the Phanoi Viewpoint. The trail up is very steep, and in parts is extremely technical and challenging to traverse. The hike has two viewpoints. The first viewpoint is challenging to reach, but definitely worth it for the view of the Nam Ou River and the town.
Many hikers tend to turn around here and not attempt to reach the second viewpoint as the trail deteriorates significantly past this point.
To reach the second viewpoint you must be confident in scrambling and navigating trails. Once you leave the first viewpoint, the route deteriorates significantly and you will come across a sign saying ‘path closed’.
If you’re confident enough to continue you will find a rough, unkept trail, with rope missing in necessary sections. You must be careful placing your feet, and be sure to engage your whole body during the ascend.
Nearing the summit, you must navigate around sharp and jagged rocks, but, if you reach here, you are treated to a full 360 degree view of the mountains, the river and the town. The view is absolutely stunning, and if you are in great shape and a confident hiker, then it is totally worth it! But be careful!
Relax and Eat!
I was incredibly surprised by how good the food was in Muang Ngoy. Unlike in Nong Khiaw, the restaurants are less busy and tend to place greater care in preparing the food to a greater standard. We ate from 6 different restaurants during our time, and we found some delicious restaurants to share with you to try when visiting Muang Ngoi.
Vita Resturant & Nicksa place
The best restaurant by far was the Vita Restaurant. We tried the Chicken Suzy, the Vegetable Suzy, and the Spring Rolls. A Suzy is a stew made with potatoes, carrots, onions, and greens, all simmered in a delicious coconut sauce. It’s definitely something you should try in Northern Laos.
The restaurant was extremely comfortable, laid back and the family running it were very welcoming towards us.
Honourable mentions must go to Nicksa’s place where we twice ate Pumpkin curry. It was creamy, flavoursome and the vegetables were perfectly cooked. It came with steamed rice and cost only 40,000 KIP (£1.5).
Morning Monk Offerings
If you are an early riser I recommend stumbling out of bed 20 meters onto the main street to witness the morning offerings to the monks.
The locals give an offering of money or food to the monks, and in return the monks recite their prayers.
These begin at the Monastery end of the main street, and continue until the end of the road. Be sure to be on the main road by at least 6:30am to witness this, and don’t get in the way or blind the monks with your camera flash!
Best time of year to visit
The best time of year to visit Muang Ngoi is during the dry season which runs from October to April. However, the latter months of the dry season coincide with the start of the burning season so beware of the poorer visibility when you are hiking, and the poorer air quality!
Final Thoughts
Muang Ngoi is a perfect place to relax, to be in nature and enjoy the surroundings. If you enjoy a slow paced and quieter time whilst travelling, compared to places such as Luang Prabang and Nong Khiaw, then you must visit Muang Ngoi, particularly before it becomes overly touristy and becomes a poor man’s Nong Khiaw!
